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Here is the photo I chose is not my purpose to make a perfect reproduction, just inspire me for a nice drawing. | I begin by defining the main features with a 2B graphite pencil. I do mostly freehand, but I use a regular rule to calculate the distances between elements. You can also use the method of small tiles for this essential step. |
I start with the central petal with a graphite pencil 9b, I support more or less strong according to the contrasts. I blend a lot on the finger because I find it rather shaded. | I continue to fill the central observing my model, for now it does not look like much, but the contrasts are very important from the outset to avoid drawing a "gray", without nuances. |
I finished the whole top of the flower in the direction of small "ribs" of the petals. The shadows will not fit anywhere, to give the "matter" it is imperative to follow the direction of shadows and light. | Next, I attack the left side of the rose: being right-handed, I feel obliged to follow this direction to avoid me to get your hands on some already made and to spread everywhere. |
I finished the rose. I only use a graphite pencil 9b. I go back and forth on the dark areas, and I hesitate not to go all black. For highlights, I dab my gum bread and I blend with a Kleenex. I always feel the ribs to give the matter. | I then ombe of the rose to make. I support very hard with my pencil and 9b with a Kleenex I blend in to avoid overflowing the shadow stops "net". In the shadow of the rod, I use only my kleenex I rubbed in the dark area. |
I keep up with the shadows of my all dirty kleenex graphite. I also place the navel that will help me follow the shadow of the lower abdomen and the stem. | I now place the shadows of the lower abdomen. I notice that there is a circular motion around the navel, I try to respect it. I go without pressing the gum bread on the bright areas. |
I could stop there but I think the bottom of the drawing is a little empty. So I decided to add a small red felt calligraphy. For the highlight, I fly in graphite: I am the meaning of the letters but in a staggered manner. | Now I see all the shadows, light and contrast to give a harmoine drawing. Once it seems to me good, I sign it;) |
Shadows & volumesOnce the main lines are drawn, we must give the impression of volume. In fact, it's not very complicated: any good self-respecting folds is composed of three parts. Part clear, one dark and one lighter again. Or vice versa. Look in a mirror, you see, it never misses. Explanations: So I said that folds is composed of three parts: 1: Part clear, 2: A dark ... 3 ... clear and a new game you have below a few exceptions. It is when the fabric is folded upon itself for example. |
TexturesOn textures, you must first do so as we feel. But there are still a few things depending on the materials. |
WoolIt is a first layer that is slightly blurred (the fingers is preferred). It then marks the lines with the graphite mine (not too cut is better). Pencils to use depending on the color of the dress of course. As in the example below, you can darken or lighten certain areas on the contrary, it is best to avoid differences in shade too high. Another example, a skirt, the more clear: |
The JeanHere too there is a layer that is blurring with the fingers. It then returns with the graphite that is tilted as much as possible to be touched very little to allow a layer just a little irregular. It is very important here to mark the seams. Explanations: |
The whole to be fairly regular (in color) and do not involve large differences in hue. And to a great transition to the next texture, here's an example (from the same drawing) that shows the difference in texture between jeans and a blouse of cotton: |
CottonHere, it works the same way as for the skin. It is smooth all the cotton in order to get a smooth result is uniform. It clarifies areas of folds that are lit. The contrast should be quite similar to that of the skin, but with the light areas a little more pronounced. For the pile is the same. |
SilkFor silk and satin, we work at the beginning as for cotton. The difference will be in the contrast is much greater. The Drive is a lot parts that need to be (with seven or even 8B). The light parts are worked either with the stump or with gum bread. It still leaves a light veil. Take note of this example that the slightest frown tissue results in a very dark folds. Similarly, one can see reflections very clear, almost white. The folds of the fabric are worked to 8 and 9B and are clearly delineated, almost without gradient. |
Wet clothingIf you're lucky, the dress will be white (the color of wet black and white, uh ...). In short, you will understand, the wet, it is not obvious. The best is yet to do as if there were no clothes and not to make the folds. 1: This has been done here. If you look closely, there is no - or little - the difference in color between the locations where the tissue where there is none. 2: For cons, the folds are quite pronounced. Already because he must show that there are still a few people, especially because what is wet reflects more light. Specifically, it darkens very strong, did not support the least possible areas clear and then we took his gum and we go merrily. 3: It remains then that arm of patient, observe, and to all those little folds that are very important for realism (that as for small and hair that always exceed that go a little in every sense). It must be made with a 7 or 8B well cut. |
The reasonsAfter, being patient, it is always possible to make patterns instead of a stupid piece of fabric together.You can also try making a wool sweater with embroidered motifs, and all wet, but then I asked to see the result! |